We’re thrilled to share another fantastic monthly post from Kate Fortescue — a celebration of December’s original, comforting flavours, centred on miso, a still-underappreciated ingredient in this part of the world.
Winter is fully upon us. Christmas lights have been up for weeks and we’ve had our first proper cold snap. Recently, while teaching an adult cooking class at the Old Oak Common Centre, the conversation turned to miso. Students from a wide range of backgrounds and food cultures shared the same enthusiasm for this fabulous ingredient. The verdict was unanimous: miso is a cupboard essential.
For me, it’s the first thing I reach for when winter veg starts to hit the shelves. The umami is brilliant with hardier green and root vegetables, which can take stronger flavours and lend themselves to slow cooks and simmering.
Miso is fermented soybean paste, fundamental to Japanese cooking. There are two main types. White miso, typically from Kyoto, is made from soybeans and rice with a shorter fermentation, giving it a lighter, sweeter, more delicate flavour. Red miso, more associated with Tokyo, uses soybeans with rice or barley and is aged much longer, making it darker and saltier, with more punch. White miso paste is normally used in soups and dressings and red is best for marinades or stews.
The fermentation gives miso its deep umami flavour. Because it contains living bacteria that is good for your gut, never boil it. Stir it in at the end, off the heat, or you risk killing the bacteria and turning the miso bitter.
Part of my training as a chef took place at Tokyo College of Washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine), where I learned how to get the most out of miso. It is a key element of winter cooking in Japan and incredibly versatile. It is used in marinades for fish and chicken, and in soups and simmered dishes.
For a simple marinade, mix equal parts red miso and honey, coat fish or chicken fillets and refrigerate for 2-3 hours, and up to 24 hours if you can. Wipe off the excess, leaving a thin layer, then grill, basting with the leftover marinade. Black cod is often used in Japan, but for a more sustainable plant-based alternative try tofu. It works beautifully.
Miso is also a great replacement for stock in soups. Roast off whatever veg you have, add miso and hot water and blend. As a rule of thumb, use about 1 teaspoon of miso per 200g cooked veg, then add lemon and/or more miso to season.
At the moment, I keep coming back to two dishes I can’t get enough of: miso greens and beans, and a simple miso dressing for winter vegetables. The miso greens and beans is proper warming bowl food, the kind you eat with a spoon and feel instantly better. It’s comforting and tasty, and super nutritious with all those greens and beans. The miso dressing is salty, tangy, with that umami hit, which lightens the winter veg and brings everything together for a perfect side dish.
Miso Greens and Beans
Serves 2 as main and 4 as a side
2 tbsp oil
1 onion (diced)
1 large leek (thinly sliced)
400g winter greens (e.g brussels sprouts quartered, kale and cabbage shredded)
400g tin cannellini beans (drained)
400ml vegetable stock
2 tbsp white miso
1 tsp honey
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
50g coconut milk
Heat the oil in a wide pan. Cook the onion and leek gently for 10 minutes until soft. If using Brussels sprouts, add them with half the stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Add shredded greens like kale and cabbage and simmer for 2 minutes. Mix the coconut milk, miso, honey, soy and vinegar with the remaining stock. Pour into the pan with the beans and cook for 5 minutes until everything is tender but still has bite. Season to taste with salt and fresh lemon juice.
Tofu
250g tofu (cubed 2x2cm approx)
250g brussels (quartered)
2tbs miso
1tsp honey
2tbs Light olive
1tsp rice vinegar
1tsp sesame seeds
Mix miso, honey and oil
Use 2/3 to coat tofu and Brussels – marinade for min 30 mins to 1 hr if you have time.
Cook under medium hot grill u til start ring to brown
Combine rest of marinade with rice vinegar. Add drop of lemon to season if required
Stir through brussell sprout and tofu before serving and sprinkle sesame seeds.
Eat with sticky rice!
Miso Dressed Winter Greens
Serves 4 as a side
400g winter greens (for example Brussels sprouts, kale or cabbage)
1 tbsp white miso
½ tsp honey
1.5 tbsp rice wine vinegar
3 tbsp neutral oil
1 tsp sesame oil
10-15ml hot water Lemon juice to taste Toasted sesame seeds
Steam your greens until tender. Whisk the miso with the hot water to break down the paste, then add the honey, vinegar and both oils. Add lemon juice to taste to lift it. Dress the warm greens and scatter with sesame seeds. I serve mine with bonito (dried tuna flakes) on top for extra umami hit!
What’s playing in my kitchen: Cesária Évora’s Sodade, Teresa Cristina’s Meu Mundo é Hoje and Bonga’s Mona Ki Ngi Xica. Music with depth and layers, shaped by history and tradition. It pairs well with miso, built slowly over time and full of character and complexity.
